The key to (surviving) Budapest in the winter

At latitude 47, it's no big surprise that wintertime in Budapest can be cold, and, thanks to the latitude and time change, it's dark by teatime - which is all the more distressing because in Hungary there's no such thing as teatime. So when it's not dark, it's either gray or about to be gray. But before you start pricing out those light-therapy machines, here's some activities that might brighten up your day, or at least your mood, so you can get out and about before cabin fever sets in.

Monika Jones

Gorge on a traditional Hungarian meal, such as this big plate of sült csülök, then turn in early after a sör or two at a local watering hole and your sure to feel better than a bear hibernating - or at least as full.

Get Movin'

They say exercise is key to overcoming winter lethargy. So get your heart rate going (slowly) with a romantic glide around Budapest's loveliest (and Europe's second oldest) ice-skating rink at the City Park. The downside is everyone in the city thinks it's pretty - so long queues form quickly on weekends. But it's worth the wait. The picturesque Vajdahunyad Castle and the elegant neo-Baroque skating clubhouse frame the rink providing the skater with a jaw-droppingly beautiful view. Plus, with 12,000 square meters, you're left with plenty of room to move around in, and the music coming from the loudspeakers ensures you keep doing just that. Unlike other, smaller, temporary rinks around town, the City Park rink rarely has that thick, wet sheen of a poorly frozen pond. Which means even if you're not attempting that double axel, you're less likely to have your pants sopping wet after a couple spins. Unless of course you're really bad, in which case, lucky for you, the ticket is good all day.

Take a Dip (forget you're in Hungary, part one)

Do bother to get all wet in a comparatively warmer body of water. Yes, it might be stating the obvious to suggest heading to one of Budapest's 19 thermal baths as a necessary addition to any touristy adventure around town, but don't forget that many locals go up to three times a week as part of a regular wintertime anti-suicide routine. Follow the directions of: sauna, warm pool, cold pool, very hot pool, then steam room. Rinse and repeat if desired. It's well worth taking your clothes off for this. The only thing to remember is that hours and standards vary; some baths are co-ed only on weekends or late at night, others close at 6pm. Check the directory listings to be sure. And remember to bring flip-flops and your own big towel to keep warm when you set out to melt into the outdoor pools, where steam billows past the shadowy recesses of nude statues adorning warm water spouting fountains. You'll be so relaxed you'll forget you're anywhere but heaven.

Shop 'til you Drop (forget you're in Hungary, part two)

It's equally easy to lose yourself as well - quite literally - at Arena Plaza, the newest addition to the Hungarian shopping experience. At 100,000 sq. meters, the mall is the largest in Central and Eastern Europe and truly massive. Shaped after the horse racing arena it was built upon, the mega-mall features 200 retail shops, with Tesco and Electro World, Peek and Cloppenburg, Pull and Bear, Bershka, Zara, H&M and C&A occupying the most room. Located on the M2 metro line between Keleti Pályaudvar and Stadionok stations, there's a 2,800-vehicle parking lot for those with wheels (Ft 200 per hour). Perk up with some bright and flashy entertainment: the 22-screen Arena Plaza Cinema with the first IMAX in Hungary just opened on Thurs., 17 Jan. But go only if sitting at one of the enormous food courts people-watching isn't amusing enough.

Chew on This

Budapest boasts plenty of places to stuff yourself silly other than chomping french-fries at a mega mall. Consumption of food is a pastime that's particularly enjoyable this time of year, since the dark and cold provide great excuses for overindulging in the artery-clogging specialties Hungary produces. Now you can eat as much thick, meaty home-style borjúpörkölt as you want, as long as it's washed down with a jug of local red bor. Do make sure you go "home-style" though: what you want to avoid at all costs are the kind of overpriced, stuffy places that are the culinary equivalent of the Gellért baths in high season: soulless. Seriously, make a day out of a warm, hearty heart-stopping three or four-course Hungarian meal. It's guaranteed to transform any semblance of winter boredom into an over-worked digestive tract before you can say egészségedre three times fast, albeit not recommended for vegetarians. See the "Top 33" list of our sister website Chew.hu for the top, well, 33 places to check out.

Patrician Sensibility

The State Opera house in Budapest just might be more ornate than Tchaikovsky's Sugar Plum Fairy - mostly since it's open year-round and the latter is only in Clara's dreams, according to most versions of the world-famous wintertime ballet "The Nutcracker." Though tickets are available throughout the season, most performances other than the occasional ballet are Italian operas with Hungarian subtitles. That said, being an Opera buff is not a prerequisite for enjoying this richly decorated, neo-Renaissance hall, (which also contains baroque elements for those with a good eye). In fact, a self-guided tour that includes ballerinas, trombones and bright lights is a far better deal than paying the Ft 1,000 for a real guided tour that takes place when the red curtains are shut. Everyone seems to know this, however, so the Ft 800 nosebleed seats can sell-out in the wintertime. But before paying for Ft 10,000 seats in the kabin, check the box-office the day of the performance for the best deals on tickets. As they say, the show's not over 'til the fat lady sings.

Hungarian Happy Hour

Being in Hungary, a winter cheer program should include a visit to a local watering hole, because heavy drinking - a steadfast path to solid cheer, or at least the next best thing, rosy cheeks - is most easy achievable at a local kocsma (pub), söröző (beer hall), or borozó (wine bar). There are countless places that are so genuine you won't see any ennui-producing tourists or hipsters, and you'll pay a fraction of the price than if you were to hang out with them. The plan is essentially to start at dusk to get properly inebriated by the mid-evening, which reveals the real key to surviving Budapest in the winter: if you're in the bag by 10:00, you'll probably be up the next morning by 6:00, and will actually get to enjoy a few extra hours of precious sun, always the most effective defense against the wintertime blues.

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