In Esztergom, historical sightseeing gives way to soaking and splashing

The picturesque town of Esztergom is one of the major tourist attractions along the Danube bend. As the seat of Hungarian Catholicism, and the former capital of Hungary, its historical significance, imposing basilica and abundance of restaurants make for a pleasant day-trip, at least for history-minded adults. With the opening of the bathing complex in November, now there is something for the kids, too, especially in the winter months.

On arrival on the town's verdant island on the Danube, the first thing you notice is the modern simplicity of the Aquasziget. The complex's exterior is all clear lines of concrete and steel, but on the inside, plenty of plants and warm pastel colors create a light, cheery mood. The staff is friendly and the entry system, unlike those of so many older baths in Hungary, is a breeze. For Ft 1,575 (€6.30) for adults and Ft 2,300/Ft 3,700 (€9.20/€14.80) for family tickets - for one or two adults and up to five children - you can enjoy four hours' worth of paddling, splashing, spinning, climbing and sliding. An electronic tag on your wrist strap opens the turnstile and locks and unlocks your spacious locker. The changing rooms are clean and functional with large walk-through cabins and basic, clean showers.

A climbing wall is among the other notable innovations. The kids seemed to have no problem with it, but adult hands and frames proved a bit too large - maybe this place isn't designed for big kids after all. On the other hand, the whole family can take pleasure in the whirlpool, which is like those at the Lukács and Széchényi baths in Budapest, except a little more whirly. Here, the underwater jets are strong enough to send young and old careening around and fighting to keep the inevitable inane grins off their faces.

Generally speaking, the complex is very clean, welcoming and well designed, but if there is to be one serious bit of fürdő criticism, it is that the water is not as warm as in other area baths - the spring in Esztergom is apparently not as thermal as it used to be. But the bathing temperature is comfortable, at least inside. (The outside area is closed in the winter months.) In addition, apart from a strangely mesmeric light and sound show in one part of the complex, and the enticingly slick bar, the Adventure Pool (the best translation yet of Élményfürdő) offers little of special interest for adults, apart from giving something for the kids to stay busy with. And while the water jets we tried were fine for relaxing tired shoulders, the promised saunas and steam rooms were nowhere to be found. We only discovered later that the Turkish baths, wellness facilities and massage areas are in a different part of the building, and that a separate entry fee applies. Oh well, another go on the slide?

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