Caboodle.hu's comprehensive guide to getting around

By: Monika Jones

Compared to many places in the world, traveling around Budapest and Hungary using public transportation is effective, safe, and reliable. However, getting from place to place by tram, taxi, car, bike, metro, bus, foot, or ferry can be harried and confusing. So to arm travelers with the most accurate and informative local know-how, we have created this comprehensive guide to getting out and about in Budapest, and then sojourning Hungary.

 

Quick Links to Sections of the Guide

 

IN AND AROUND BUDAPEST

Public Transportation Tickets

Routes

Taxis

City by Bike

Ferries and Boats

 

OUT AND ABOUT IN HUNGARY

Air Travel

Trains

Train Tickets

Driving

Buses

Hitchhiking

 

IN AND AROUND BUDAPEST

 

The effective and affordable public transportation system is run by BKV, and it consists of underground train lines (metró), trams (villamos), buses (busz*), trolley buses, and a commuter train (HÉV), the latter which services the suburbs of the city. Once you've got the hang of it, you'll be flying around the city faster than the people with cars.

 

*A note on terminology: the term busz only looks like the English word. It's actually pronounced 'boose' like 'goose.' "Bus" in Hungarian translates to the naughty verb, in English, that rhymes with 'duck.'

 

Public Transportation Tickets

It's important to remember that riding on public transportation requires purchasing a ticket (jegy) prior to boarding, and the ticket should be validated before heading down the escalator to the underground, but once aboard trams and buses.

 

Individual tickets (as of January, 2008, Ft 270, €1 a single ride) can be purchased from a cashier or machine. Be advised that prices change every six months. In spring of 2008, tickets will be available by sending an SMS to BKV.

 

BKV transportation runs on an honors system, and while there are ways around it, be aware that plain-clothed armband-clad ticket inspectors will make frequent rounds and, from experience, have little tolerance for foreigners pleading ignorance.

 

As of January 2008 the fine for riding without a valid ticket is ft 10,000 (€40), though if you pay on the spot it is reduced to Ft 5,000 (€20) and the receipt issued is good as a day pass. Like ticket prices, fines are subject to change every six months. And no, BKV inspectors don't respond well to bribery, forgery, or headbutting.

 

For longer stays in Budapest, it's worth getting a ticket booklet of 10 individual tickets, or a two-week pass, which as of January 2008 is Ft 5,300 for 14-consecutive days. A 30-day combined pass is Ft 8,250 (€32.50); students with a current Hungarian student ID card can receive a discounted 30-day pass for Ft 3,250. Unfortunately, only students enrolled in an accredited Hungarian program of study qualify for discounts, international student ID cards, such as the cards issued by STA, and non-Hungarian university cards don't cut it.

 

Keep in mind that since the machines sell only individual tickets, not monthly passes, at the beginning of the month the lines at the ticket booths are long, and be warned that some cashiers are cantankerous and monolingual.

 

Routes

Once you've got your ticket to ride, you can get pretty much anywhere you want, day or night. Regular public transportation runs every 2-15 minutes between 4:30 to 23:10, daily. Some routes reduce hours during public holidays and some are occasionally closed for renovation. All three underground lines connect at Deák tér, right in the center of town, and night buses (éjszakai járatok) take over just before midnight, following underground lines M2 and M3, and major tramline routes.

 

Presently, the BKV is building the M4 line (green) which will connect southern Buda with the M2. The new line was slated for completion by the end of 2009 however financial and political problems have caused significant delay in construction, which started in 2006.

 

Taxis

Taxis in Budapest have a reputation for ripping off foreigners so it's best to call one of the taxi companies ahead of time. Once you jump in, make sure the meter is going; rates should be posted and visible. There are a variety of taxi companies to program into your mobile phone.

 

City by Bike

Traffic in Budapest means navigating the city on two wheels can be a bit scarier than, say, in Amsterdam. But while the city has some work to do in becoming perfectly cycle-friendly, there are bike paths crisscrossing the center, along the Danube, and on Margit Island that make cruising doable, and even fun. At least that is what the multiple bicycle rental shops in Budapest hope; though only the Yellow Zebra rents bikes year-round, though it's no wonder why - winters in Budapest are snowy and cold.

 

Ferries and Boats

Floating the Danube is a seemingly popular activity as there are a variety of ferry services available offering trips within Hungary to Szentendre and Visegrád as well as onward to Vienna and Western Europe. A number of luxury cruises start or finish in Budapest, and the Vigadó tér dock terminal, on the Danube near the M1 metro stop at Vörösmarty tér, is flush with options for the watery way.

 

OUT AND ABOUT IN HUNGARY

 

Air Travel

Hungary has two international airports, Ferihegy International Airport, 16 km east of Budapest, and FlyBalaton, near Lake Balaton. Additionally, there are two more airports on the way. Combined, flights service most international locations; there are no domestic flights in Hungary.

 

Getting to Ferihegy

By train:

There are two terminals at Ferihegy that are about four km apart. Only Ferihegy Terminal 1, which services discount airlines, is accessible by train from the Nyugati train station in Budapest. On weekdays train number 51 heads that direction, and on weekends there is train number 38. Non-Hungarian speakers beware, the trains only stop at the terminal on the way to other destinations and neither tickets nor trains are well-marked in English. If you are savvy enough to find your way, tickets are approx. Ft 400 and the ride takes 25 minutes.

 

By public transport:

More convenient than the train and costing only two public transportation tickets, it's possible to take public transportation to either airport terminal in about an hour. Passengers should ride the M3 (blue line) to the Kőbánya-Kispest station, which is the last stop on the line, and from there, catch bus 200 and ride for about 25 minutes. The bus stops frequently, but the airports terminals are announced in both English and Hungarian.

 

By mini bus:

The Airport Minibus is perhaps one of the easiest ways to get to and from the airport, particularly if you are traveling alone. The Minibus is reasonably priced (Ft 3,800 one-way) and the drivers speak multiple languages. If you are headed to the airport, call to schedule a pick-up 24-hours in advance. If you are headed to the city center, schedule your Minibus at the airport.

 

By taxi:

Taxis generally have a fixed rate to go from the airport to city center, and vice versa. Don't pay more than Ft 4,000. There are a variety of taxi companies to use.

 

Getting to FlyBalaton

First train, then bus. It takes at least three hours, door to door, from Budapest to the Balaton airport.

 

First, take a train to either Keszthely, which is 11 km away from the airport, or Balatonszentgyörgy, which is 12 km away. Check departure times on the MÁV website. Once you arrive, catch a local bus to Sármellék, which is within walking distance of the airport. Check the local schedule here.

 

By mini bus:

A company called Fly-Car Transport Company offers transport to local tourist destinations, a supermarket, and the Southern train station (Déli in Budapest.

 

Trains

In Hungary, as many a traveler has discovered, all trains lead to Budapest. The Hungarian state railway system, the MÁV, is efficient and timely. Their website, which is in English, German and Hungarian, is useful for checking departures (indulás) and arrivals (érkezés), though it does not show prices for international travel.

 

Train route centralization means it's impossible to get to Szeged from Debrecen by train without heading back to a station (pályaudvar) in Budapest first. That aside, if your jumping-off point is Budapest, then it is easy to get to the countryside. Most international destinations depart from the Eastern (Keleti) or the Western (Nyugati) station.

 

For travels within Hungary, your best bet is to take an InterCity (IC) train, which runs express services between Budapest and the larger cities. The sebesvonat and the gyorsvonat are both speedy enough, so there is no need to spend 10 percent more for the express train (EX), since it isn't but five percent faster. The slowest train, személyvonat stops at every hamlet in Hungary, so unless you're looking to get off the beaten path or spend five unnecessary hours on a train, opt for another option.

 

International and express trains mandate seat booking in advance, marked by an ® on the timetable.

 

At the station, departure and arrival times and corresponding platforms are indicated in a printout posted on a wall or board, not on the overhead board, which generally displays only the international trains' platforms.

 

Train Tickets

Both one-way (egy útra) and roundtrip (oda-vissza) tickets can be purchased at the station. Trips are priced approx. Ft 1,500 for 100km on a fast train. Students in accredited Hungarian programs qualify for a discount, though they must have Hungarian student ID cards with them at all times. Naturally, there are fines for not having a valid ticket (up to Ft 4,000), or not making a seat reservation in a train requiring one (Ft 500).

 

Bicycles (bicikli) can be brought aboard most passenger trains. A bicycle ticket costs an additional Ft 600 to Ft 1,000, depending on where you are going. Not all trains allow bicycles so be sure to ask first, or look for the little bicycle symbol on the MÁV website.

 

Purchasing tickets for local and international travel takes place at different cashiers offices, which can be confusing particularly if you make the mistake of purchasing your international train ticket the day your train departs, only to find you have been waiting in the wrong line then running to the cashier across the station only to find a really long line with a very slow cashier (I learned the hard way). The recommended way to get the tickets for international trains (nemzetközi gyorsvonat) is to head to the international ticket office at the station or a local travel agency at least 36 hours in advance. At the train station most cashiers speak some English, but sometimes they pretend they don't, at a travel agency they're more likely to be chatty. In any case, it's always helpful to pepper your speech with a köszönöm or two, particularly in the summer when lines can be really long and everyone is hot, late, and irritable.

 

Driving

Driving in Hungary means access to small, pastoral hamlets, and, if you have a longer stay in the city, trips to a supermarket to load up on food. The downsides include prolific ticketing, fines for not following the many rules, and the confusing task of navigating the country. On the bright side, unlike some neighboring countries, while the language can be confusing, roads and maps in Hungary are accurate and well-marked.

 

Renting a car requires a valid drivers license, third-party insurance, a highway pass (autópálya matrica), a good map, and a fair amount of gumption. Most rental agencies can provide the map, insurance, and highway pass and you'll need to come up with the rest.

 

There are plenty of car rental agencies in Budapest and around the country, so shop around. Prices can vary between Ft 10,000 and Ft 40,000 per day, depending on whether you want a 1992 Golf or a new Audi.

 

If you bring your own car or borrow a friend's, you'll need to make sure that you get the Hungarian highway pass, which can be purchased at a local gas station (benzinkút), which are generally open 24-hours. It's worth mentioning that keeping a full tank can be helpful. Passes can also be purchased online. As of 2008 the prices are Ft 1,170 for four days, 2,550 for 10 days, and 4,200 for a one-month pass.

 

Once you've got your wheels, there are a few things to keep in mind:

 

On the road:

There might be the odd horse and carriage, or tractors in the countryside, but roads are paved and clear. Don't be frightened if a pothole or two might threaten to swallow your small European rental car, they're durable.

 

If you do end up in trouble, dial 188 from any phone for roadside assistance from the Magyar Autóklub. They can assist with towing services and mechanical help.

 

Speed limits are 130kph on highways, 110kph on motorways, 90kph on county roads, and 50kph elsewhere. Patrollers do use radar scanners.

 

Other rules to follow to avoid being ticketed no matter where you are: no use of hand-held mobile phones; no driving on the left; no repeated switching lanes; no sounding a horn unless it's to prevent an accident; no U-turns or reverse on highways, and there should be no children under the age of 12 in the front seat of the car. These rules are followed and Hungarians are not bandit drivers by any means.

 

In all, Hungary is quite flat, and countryside dwellers in my few experiences will try to be helpful, so you're unlikely to drive off cliffs or run into hostile farmers with pointy pitchforks. Do be polite if you get out to ask for direction; don't expect people to speak English. Another common mistake is mispronouncing the place you're headed, if this happens the local at hand might not understand and unfortunately will be unable to help. So, arm yourself with a map and the place written down on a pad of paper, and try asking elnézést, hol van ... (pardon me, where is ...) with a smile.

 

In the city centers:

Pedestrian zones are prevalent and are indicated by a restricted access zone sign (kivéve célforgalom); if you happen into one, even if you don't hit an elderly woman, you bet you get a ticket.

 

Parking in city centers across Hungary typically costs between Ft 200 and Ft 500 per hour, depending on whether you are in a Szeged side street or near the Vár. In Budapest, you can pay for up to three hours at once. Payment can be made with coins or in Budapest by sending an sms, numbers to call are posted on all parking signs. You'll need a credit card to open an account and pay. There are few cheap all-day lots, though there is one near the Western train station, (Nyugati), and another near the last stop on the M2, (Örs vesér tere), near Ikea. Parking at night is free.

 

If you don't pay in Budapest, districts will ticket illegally parked cars every hour, meaning you can accumulate five separate parking tickets for one incident that lasted five hours. There is an on-going legal battle protesting this policy, but for the time being, be sure to pay for parking.

 

Buses

If renting a car seems too troublesome to bother, consider riding buses. Again, the domestic system is centralized, but less so than with trains. Prices are affordable, and buses make things easier, particularly within Hungary where no ride is longer than four hours. For longer distances, though, use more discretion (it can be painful on the bum).

 

Busing around Hungary

There is one domestic bus company, Volán Bus, and it's clean and well-networked.

 

Remember to book ahead of time and arrive half an hour early to the bus station. During busy seasons, tickets can be purchased from the driver for a slightly higher price; however if you opt for this, you may find yourself with standing room only. Bus stations, like train stations, can be a bit run down, the ticket cashiers can be irritable, and lines can be long. Nevertheless, they function.

 

Busing out of the country

Busing it out of the country can be done through two international lines, Eurolines which connects Budapest to other European destinations, and Orange Ways, a new discount company as of 2007 that goes from Budapest to regional cities such as Cluj, Warsaw, Vienna, Prague and Mukacheve. In all, busing can be cheaper and faster than trains, but for long routes, uncomfortable on the derriére and there's no dining car option as on even the dirtiest international train.

 

Directions to the bus stations

There are five bus stations in Budapest that depart for both domestic and international locations.

 

Buses to the Danube Bend depart from the Árpád híd station, accessible by the M3 metro line.

In District II there is the Széna tér station accessible by the M2 to Moszkva tér, or by the 4/6 tram; buses depart to the Zsámbéki basin region.

The Népliget station, on the M3 metro, is one of the largest bus hubs, and many domestic buses depart from here.

Buses headed east of the Danube depart from the Stadionok station, on the M2 metro line.

The Etele tér station has buses to Biatorbágy, Érd, Százhalombatta and surrounding area, accessible by trams 19 and 49.

 

Hitchhiking

Since there are prolific transportation options available, hitchhiking in Hungary isn't as necessary as it is in other parts of the world. That said, fetching a ride from someone already headed that way is reasonably popular in Hungary, and is a cheap way to travel and make new friends. Hungarians as well as other European travelers hitch through the central European region, and each country and region has different taboos and rules.

 

Some things to remember about Hungary: hitching is not illegal, however it's not allowed on highways. Hitchhikers should stand at the entrance to large motorways or at nearby petrol stations.

 

Your best bet is to use legible sign indicating which direction you're headed, especially if you want to catch a lift from cars bound for the M7 en route to Lake Balaton or Zagreb. Waving and smiling might be an order, though most people know if your thumb is up, you want a ride.

 

Keep in mind that hitchhiking poses a risk, particularly if you are alone or at night. Drivers will be hesitant to pick up hitchhikers after dusk since there have been more than one instance of highway robbery.

 

While Caboodle.hu doesn't condone hitching as a safe and viable way to transport, it does encourage those who do choose to hitchhike to use common sense, keep a list of emergency numbers and let contacts know where you are headed in case something happens.

 

And that's all for now, until next time, safe travels! Jó utat!

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