This hidden drinking den (Pótkulcs is Hungarian for "spare key") is a lot of what Budapest is all about, a low-key outdoor courtyard in summer and an all-purpose, lived-in venue all year round. As a result, Pótkulcs is hugely popular with the drunken chums-for-a-day from the nearby youth hostel, but also makes a great bohemian hang-out for locals and expats in BP for the long haul. Amid the whooping of young people high on travel, you too can expand your horizons with some live jazz, rock, Hungarian and ethnic music - and even Feng Shui lessons every other Tuesday.