In Budapest, beauty goes to the dogs

Budapest is well known for its large concentration of hair and beauty salons. In fact, there are so many szépségszalonok on any given street that it wouldn't be surprising if no one has noticed some salons are not for people, but pooches. It's estimated that 50%-60% of Hungarians own dogs, however local dog experts agree that an increasing number of these dogs are enjoying - or being subjected to - the sorts of beauty treatments once reserved for their owners.

Monika Jones

(Top) Physical therapist turned dog groomer Eszter Szántó at work at Bell Kutyakozmetika; (bottom) British expat Nadia Hartman, with Maggie, her dog. Hartman says the popularity of dogs and doggie salons in Hungary makes it easy for foreigners to get a variety of services - though always double check for quality, she warned after having Maggie's eyebrows clipped without her permission.

According to Veronika Virányi, the owner of Angyali Szemek Kutyakozmetika (Angel Eyes Dog Cosmetics), the dog beauty trend is being driven by a growing fashion for good-looking dogs, and the rise in disposable income of dog-lovers, which makes services that used to be expensive affordable to the country's growing middle class.

"There are many dog salons, and they work at different prices. There are several that are affordable to everyone," Virányi says. Popular treatments include bathing, nail clipping, and hair removal, with prices ranging from Ft 500 (€2) to Ft 10,000 (€40) depending on the treatment, the salon and the size of the dog being made beautiful.

There are around 50 dog salons in Budapest proper, says Eszter Szántó, a physical therapist turned professional groomer who works at Bell Kutyakozmetika at Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 41 in District VI. The salon is 35 years old, one of the oldest in the city.

According to Szántó, dog parlors have long been popular in Hungary - just as they are in the United States and Europe, she says - but what has become more popular is having "hip" doggies, which means getting the dog to the parlor more often, and buying out-fits, priced from Ft 3,500. "Little sweaters and jackets are not a bad idea since dogs do get cold," says Szántó.

She is occasionally humored by unique beautifying requests: a few weeks ago she colored a dog's hair bright red, another time she trimmed a cat's fur into a chessboard.

"But more popular is having clean, good-looking dogs, and having them wearing colorful outfits," she says.

At Bell Kutyakozmetika, a wash, trim and grooming costs Ft 6,500 (€25). Szántó says they run the salon, "just like a hairdresser's," however they will keep the dogs all day in a "doggy hotel." All in all, it's a pretty good deal, considering some dogs take up to five hours to groom by hand.

Nadia Hartman, a British expat living in Budapest, has taken her miniature Schnauzer Maggie to several doggie parlors in the city, including Bell Kutyakozmetika. She says going to the dog salons poses the same risks as any other beauty parlors - if you are a walk-in you never know what you are going to get.

Once, she dropped off Maggie with specific instructions: Wash only. But when she returned, she noticed that her pup's eyebrows had not only been brushed, but trimmed.

"I was upset, really," says Hartman. "I left her for twenty minutes. They should not have done that."

But Maggie's eyebrows have grown back, and Hartman has since taken her back for more beauty treatments.

"The services most of the salons provide are convenient and affordable," Hartman says, adding that keeping a dog in Budapest is generally easy, and can offer benefits beyond mere canine companionship.

"It was unbelievably easy for me to get situated with Maggie," she says. "I found more than one dog-groomer, and it was easy to find a vet who speaks English as well," she says. "And it made me more popular with my neighbors. I've lived here for two years and before the Hungarians in my building wouldn't talk to me, now they are really friendly."

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